In Nyeri, near Karatina, the Kiama Farmer Cooperative Society runs Ichuga Factory, where farmer delivered cherry is sorted, pulped, fermented and washed under close supervision.
Parchment coffee dries slowly on raised beds, turned regularly and protected from the midday sun, before the cooperative moves it to the dry mill for grading.
It's a strong demonstration of a well oiled supply chain, with the cooperative's oversight helping many small farmers make a living from their lots. That care shows clearly in the cup, crisp green apple, delicate rosehip, and caramel; layered and clean.